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Insulation Types

Insulation Guide - Think carefully about the location you want to insulate and decide what your main goal is.  Are you trying to seal air leaks, add R-value, or reflect radiant heat?   Will the insulation be  susceptible to moisture, sunlight, insects or rodents?  Is there a specific problem you are trying to solve like condensation, mold, pipe freeze-ups or ice dams?  With these factors in mind look for the best insulation type for your situation.

Batt or Roll Insulation

Common Name(s):Fiberglass,  fiberglass batts, batts, "the pink stuff"
R-value per Inch: around 3.2
Strengths or Best Use: low cost, readily available at local stores, easy DIY installation, there is little left unknown about this product- time tested, can handle small amounts of moisture, naturally fire resistant (needs noadditional chemicals), use in standard framing spacing and wide cavities, some brands have high recycled content
Weaknesses:not very air tight, subject to air movement around and through the batts, low r-value per inch in narrow cavities, fibers can lead to poor indoor air quality (rare), brands containing formaldehyde off gas over time, itches like crazy during install, nesting material for rodents

Common Name(s): High density fiberglass
R-value per Inch:3.6 - 4
Strengths or Best Use: easy DIY installation, not damaged by moderate moisture contact, naturally fire resistant (needsno additional chemicals), moderate availability
Weaknesses:not very air tight, subject to air movement around the batts, low r-value per inch in narrow cavities, fibers can lead to poorindoor air quality (rare), itches like crazy during install

Common Name(s):Recycled denim, blue jean insulation, recycled cotton
R-value per Inch:3.4 - 3.8
Strengths or Best Use: high recycled content, DIY installation, not itchy during install, good sound deadening
Weaknesses:expensive, not very air tight, subject to air movement around and through the batts, low r-value per inch in narrow cavities, will absorb moisture and suffer damage if wet, not available everywhere, nesting material for rodents, batts are not sized for standard construction and are difficult to cut

Common Name(s):Cotton batts, cotton insulation
R-value per Inch:3.4 - 3.8
Strengths or Best Use: made from natural fibers, easy DIYinstallation, not itchy during install, can be installed at any temperature
Weaknesses: not very air tight, subject to air movement around and through the batts, low r-value per inch in narrow cavities, will absorb moisture and suffer damage if wet, nesting material for rodents

Common Name(s):Sheep's wool batts, sheep's wool
R-value per Inch: about 3.5
Strengths or Best Use: made from natural fibers, easy DIY installation, not itchy during install
Weaknesses:not very air tight, subject to air movement around and through the batts, low r-value per inch in narrow cavities, will absorb moisture and suffer damage if wet, not fully tested by time and ASTM, not widely available, expensive compared to other batt products, subject to moth damage if not properly treated

Common Name(s):Mineral wool batts, mineral wool, rock wool, slag wool
R-value per Inch: about 3.7
Strengths or Best Use: high recycled content, easy DIY installation, naturally fire resistant and can be used in close contact with stoves and chimneys, not damaged by moderate moisture contact
Weaknesses: not very air tight, subject to air movement around the batts, not widely available, fibers can cause indoor air quality problems (rare), itchy to install

Loose Fill or Blown Insulation

Common Name(s):Cellulose, recycled paper insulation, newsprint insulation
R-value per Inch:about 3.5
Strengths or Best Use: low cost, high recycled content, DIY installation with rental machine, covers non uniform surfaces, good for attics with lots of cavity space, widely available, good sound deadening
Weaknesses:not very air tight, air can flow through the insulation especially when coverage is light, fibers can cause indoor air quality problems (rare), good nesting material for rodents, permanently damaged if it gets wet, does not dry quickly, metal corrosion problems have been attributed to boric acid (fire resistant chemicals) leaching out of wet cellulose

Common Name(s):Fiberglass, blown in fiberglass, blown in blankets
R-value per Inch:2.8 - 3
Strengths or Best Use: low cost, DIY installation with rental machine, naturally fire resistant (needs no additional chemicals), not damaged by moderate moisture contact, covers non uniform surfaces, good for attics with lots of cavity space, widely available, some brands have high recycled content
Weaknesses:not very air tight, air can flow through the insulationespecially when coverage is light, fibers can cause indoor air quality problems (rare), itchy to install, good nesting material for rodents, brands containing formaldehyde off gas over time

Common Name(s):Cotton, blown in cotton, blown in blankets
R-value per Inch:about 3
Strengths or Best Use: made from natural fibers, DIY installation with rental machine, covers non uniform surfaces, good for attics with lots of cavity space, widely available
Weaknesses:not very air tight, air can flow through the insulation especially when coverage is light, good nesting material for rodents, permanently damaged if it gets wet, does not dry quickly

Common Name(s):Blown in batts, BIBs, blown fiber with binder
R-value per Inch:3.5 - 4
Strengths or Best Use: good for wall installations except locations susceptible to moisture, readily available, minimal trim waste, good sound deadening, moderate airtightness
Weaknesses:not DIY friendly,

Common Name(s):Mineral wool, rock wool, slag wool
R-value per Inch:about 2.8
Strengths or Best Use: high recycled content, naturally fire resistant and can be used in close contact with stoves and chimneys, not damaged by moderate moisture contact
Weaknesses:not very air tight, air can flow through the insulation especially when coverage is light, not available everywhere, fibers can cause indoor air quality problems (rare), itchy to install

Common Name(s):Vermiculite
R-value per Inch:about 2
Strengths or Best Use: naturally fire resistant and can be used inclose contact with stoves and chimneys, not damaged by moderate moisture contact, still used for insulating concrete block
Weaknesses:not very air tight, air can flow through the insulationespecially when coverage is light, not available everywhere, some vermiculite is contaminated with asbestos depending on where it was mined, not used much for home insulation anymore but it may be found in older homes

Common Name(s):Perlite
R-value per Inch:2.5 - 3
Strengths or Best Use: naturally fire resistant and can be used in close contact with stoves and chimneys, not damaged by moderate moisture contact, still used for insulating concrete block
Weaknesses: not very air tight, air can flow through the insulation especially when coverage is light, not available everywhere, not used much for home insulation anymore but it may be found in older homes

Rigid Board Insulation

Common Name(s):Polyisocyanurate, polyiso board
R-value per Inch:6 - 7
Strengths or Best Use: high R-value, readily available at local stores, easy DIY installation, can be airtight if sealed/taped at the seams, good for narrow spaces that still need high R-value, air can go around but not through this insulation
Weaknesses: Expensive, R-value diminishes slightly over time especially if the foil face is removed, will absorb moisture if wet, degrades in sunlight

Common Name(s):Polystyrene bead board, Styrofoam
R-value per Inch:about 3.5
Strengths or Best Use: readily available at local stores, easy DIY installation, can be airtight if sealed/taped at the seams, air can go around but not through this insulation, used for foundation insulation and under concrete slabs
Weaknesses: Will absorb moisture if wet, degrades in sunlight, not very fire resistant

Common Name(s):Expanded polystyrene, EPS
R-value per Inch:4
Strengths or Best Use: readily available at local stores, easy DIY installation, can be airtight if sealed/taped at the seams, air can go around but not through this insulation, used for foundation insulation and under concrete slabs
Weaknesses: Will absorb moisture if wet, degrades in sunlight, not very fire resistant

Common Name(s):Extruded polystyrene, XPS, blue board, pink board
R-value per Inch:5
Strengths or Best Use: readily available at local stores, easy DIY installation, can be airtight if sealed/taped at the seams, air can go around but not through this insulation, used for foundation insulation and under concrete slabs
Weaknesses: degrades in sunlight, some ants will burrow and nest in XPS, not very fire resistant

Common Name(s):Rigid fiberglass
R-value per Inch:4.4
Strengths or Best Use: easy DIY installation, air can go around but not through this insulation, used for roof  insulation (commercial) and foundation insulation, used in narrow cavities, not susceptible to moisture damage, naturally fire resistant (needs no additional chemicals)
Weaknesses:expensive, not available everywhere

Common Name(s):Phenolic foam boards
R-value per Inch:4.8
Strengths or Best Use: used for roof  insulation (commercial) in the 1980's because it was reasonably priced for a high R-value
Weaknesses: when wet it leached an acid that was corrosive to metal roof decking, no longer distributed


Spray Applied Insulation

Common Name(s):Open-cell polyurethane foam, open-cell, soft foam, half-pound foam
R-value per Inch:3.5 - 4
Strengths or Best Use: air tight installation, good for high efficiency homes and saving energy, good for whole house installations except locations susceptible to moisture, readily available
Weaknesses: more expensive than batts or cellulose, will absorb moisture, not DIY friendly, installation produces excess foam that must be trimmed and disposed of, ongoing debate in industry about fire resistance in exposed applications, subject to minimum and maximum temperature restrictions during installation

Common Name(s):Closed-cell polyurethane foam, closed-cell, hard foam, two-pound foam
R-value per Inch:5 - 6.8
Strengths or Best Use: air tight installation, good for high efficiency homes and saving energy, good for whole house installations especially locations with narrow cavities, readily available, increases structural integrity wherever applied, moisture tolerant, will not absorb moisture, minimal trim waste in standard framing sizes
Weaknesses:expensive, not DIY friendly, ongoing debate in industry about fire resistance in exposed applications, installer experience/training critical as improperly installed foam is prone to failure, subject to minimum and maximum temperature restrictions during installation

Common Name(s):Kit foam, can foam, DIY foam
R-value per Inch:5 - 6
Strengths or Best Use: can be used to air seal large areas or to fully insulate small areas, available for DIY but not necessarily user friendly- some learning curve and requires special respirator filters, available by mail order anywhere
Weaknesses: expensive especially if used for large areas, not user friendly- requires know how to both select right  product and install it properly,  subject to minimum and maximum temperature restrictions during installation

Common Name(s):Wet spray cellulose, spray cellulose, dense pack cellulose ("dense pack" is an incorrect term often used to describe wet spray cellulose, see "dense pack" under injected insulation)
R-value per Inch:3.5
Strengths or Best Use: high recycled content, tight installation, good for high efficiency homes, good for whole house installations except locations susceptible to moisture, readily available, minimal trim waste
Weaknesses:not DIY friendly, installed wet and concerns about moisture release and mold have surfaced in the industry, adhesion to wall surfaces can break down over time so the tight installation may not be long term

Poured-in or Injected Insulation

Common Name(s):Open-cell polyurethane foam, open-cell injection foam, blown in foam
R-value per Inch: 4
Strengths or Best Use: air tight installation, good for retrofitting existing walls and cathedral ceilings, can bring older homes up to modern efficiencies
Weaknesses: expensive, will absorb moisture, not DIY friendly, not available everywhere, subject to minimum and maximum temperaturerestrictions during installation

Common Name(s):Closed-cell polyurethane foam, closed-cell injection foam, blown in foam
R-value per Inch:5 - 7
Strengths or Best Use: air tight installation, great for retrofitting walls and cathedral slopes and any narrow cavities, can bring older homes up to modern efficiencies, increases structural integrity wherever applied, moisture tolerant, will not absorb moisture
Weaknesses:expensive, not DIY friendly, installer experience/training critical as improperly installed foam can damage walls with expansion pressure, subject to minimum and maximum temperature restrictions during installation, not available everywhere

Common Name(s):Kit foam, can foam, DIY foam
R-value per Inch:5 - 6
Strengths or Best Use: can be used to fill cavities or to fully insulate small areas, available for DIY but not necessarily user friendly- some learning curve and requires special respirator filters, available by mail order anywhere
Weaknesses:expensive especially if used for large quantities, not user friendly- requires know how to both select right  product and install it properly,  DIY USERS MUST STUDY UP- improper installations can lead to poor mixtures that don't cure or to pushed walls, subject to minimum and maximum temperature restrictions during installation,

Common Name(s): Dense pack cellulose, dense pack
R-value per Inch:3.5
Strengths or Best Use: high recycled content, tight installation, good for high efficiency homes, good for wall and cathedral ceiling retrofits except locations susceptible to moisture
Weaknesses: expensive, not DIY friendly, installer experience/training important as improper installations can push walls, dense packing spaces under 3" thick is very risky, dense packing against brick can be risky because moisture can migrate through brick

Common Name(s):Cementitious foam, foamed cement, magnesium silicate
R-value per Inch:3.9
Strengths or Best Use:made from natural materials, tight installation, good for wall retrofits and enclosed cavities and cement block insulation, high fire resistance, not susceptible to moisture damage even though it will absorb moisture
Weaknesses: expensive, not DIY friendly, not available everywhere, friable (fragile and brittle)

Common Name(s):Phenolicfoams
R-value per Inch:4.8
Strengths or Best Use: air is the blowing agent, reasonably priced forretrofit insulation, good for wall retrofits
Weaknesses:not DIY friendly, not available everywhere, reports of shrinkage after installation

Common Name(s):Tripolymerfoams, nitrogen based foams
R-value per Inch:4.6
Strengths or Best Use: water is the blowing agent, reasonably priced for retrofit insulation, good for wall retrofits, good fire resistance, airtight installation
Weaknesses:not DIY friendly, not available everywhere, has a reputation as being chemically related to urea formaldehyde foam which was discontinued for health reasons- issue remains cloudy because manufacturers are not forthright about the chemistry of these foams

Common Name(s):Ureaformaldehyde foam, UF foams
R-value per Inch:4.6
Strengths or Best Use: reasonably priced for retrofit insulation, itwas popular in the 1970's and 80's
Weaknesses:no longer distributed (as far as I know), if found in walls itdisintegrates to the touch, banned after it was found to offgasharmful chemicals over time, should be removed and replaced if you find it in your home

Radiant Barriers

Common Name(s): Insulative paint, radiant barrier paint
R-value per Inch:unknown
Strengths or Best Use:  none
Weaknesses:radiant barriers are not well understood and little controlled research has been done on their effectiveness, paints in particular are prone to unbelievable claims such as very high R-values- in most cases these are "R-value equivalents," meaning that the radiant heat reflected is "equivalent" to the same amount of heat that would have been lost by conduction. Unfortunately, heat transfer by radiation does not have a direct conversion to transfer by conduction so these R-value equivalents are not accurate comparisons. Insulation-Guide.com regards the claims  of radiant barrier paints as dubious and would like to see more 3rd party data that supports the claims.

Common Name(s): Radiant barriers
R-value per Inch:unknown
Strengths or Best Use: locations prone to radiant heat loss or gain, moreeffective at reducing AC costs than heating costs, most effective in the attic above existing insulation, installed facing up. It also has the advantage of being easier to ship and taking up less trucking and warehouse space and not as irritating to install as fiberglass.
Weaknesses:if the barrier gets a layer of dust in it it's effectiveness isreduced, radiant barriers are not well understood and little controlled research has been done on their effectiveness

Common Name(s): Bubble wrap, reflective foil, bubble foil
R-value per Inch:unknown
Strengths or Best Use: below radiant floor tubing to direct heat towards the occupied space
Weaknesses: not really a primary insulation system by itself

Combination Insulation Systems and Structural Insulation Systems

Common Name(s):Straw bales, straw
R-value per Inch:about 2.4
Strengths or Best Use: made from natural materials, low cost
Weaknesses:not very air tight, subject to air movement around the bales, can't be used in narrow cavities, will absorb moisture and suffer damage if wet, not fully tested by time and ASTM, not for the average DIY project

Common Name(s):Structurally insulated panels, SIPS panels
R-value per Inch:same as EPS (R=4) or closed-cell polyurethane foam (R=6) depending onwhich type of panel you get
Strengths or Best Use: new construction, timber framed homes, highefficiency homes, air tight construction
Weaknesses:expensive though EPS panels are less than urethane panels, not DIYfriendly, SIPS panels have had problems in the past with rot caused bycondensation at panel seams and poor flashingdetails, moisturemanagement needs to be specifically considered if using SIPS

Common Name(s): Insulated concrete forms, ICF's
R-value per Inch:same as EPS insulation (the concrete mass is often ignored in ther-value calculation because it complicates the situation)
Strengths or Best Use: new construction, above grade walls, basements,crawlspaces, highefficiency homes, homes prone to high winds or earthquakes, ICFs are airtight and structurally strong
Weaknesses:expensive, not for the average DIY project

Common Name(s):Flash and batt, flash and dash, thin coat of spray foam for air sealing and remaining cavity filled in with less expensive insulation system.
R-value per Inch:depends on the combination of insulation materials used
Strengths or Best Use: reasonable cost, good for new construction and air tight construction
Weaknesses: the thickness of the foam coat is critical especially in colder climates and should be determined by a building science professional- if the foam is too thin it may lead to condensation inside the wall on really cold days

CommonName(s):Exterior Insulation Finish system, EIFS (pronounced "e-fis"), stucco
R-value per Inch:Typically the same as XPS foam board R=5
Strengths or Best Use: reasonable cost, good for new construction and stucco finished homes, good way to add extra R-value to a wall system, reduces conduction losses through the wall framing
Weaknesses:this system had serious problems with trapped moisture in the 1980's - moisture management is now a regular consideration in EIFS designs

Common Name(s):Advanced framing techniques
R-value per Inch:depends on the combination of insulation materials used
Strengths or Best Use: a set of framing techniques designed to maximize cavity space for insulation, reduce the conduction losses through the "thermal bridges" of the framing, reduce the quantity of framing materials, and reduce air leaks between framing members
Weaknesses:some learning curve for the DIY builder, make sure local code officials approve the building techniques before construction, some of the techniques require building materials not commonly found at local lumber yards

Common Name(s):Airtight drywall
R-value per Inch:n/a
Strengths or Best Use: aframing technique where the drywall is glued to all the framing members and to electrical boxes in order to make it a more effective block to air leaks, good for new construction and air tight construction, this method is sometimes used in conjunction with exterior foam sheathing(below)
Weaknesses:labor intensive, makes later sheetrock removal for renovations difficult

Common Name(s):Exterior foam sheathing
R-value per Inch:same as XPS (R=5) or Polyiso board (R=7) depending on what is used
Strengths or Best Use: Aframing technique where the wood sheathing (typically plywood or OSB) is replaced with  1" to 4" thick rigid foam panels or nail base panels. The wall bays are filled with batts or cellulose.  Also used to add insulation over existing sheathing before new siding is installed. Good for new construction and for retrofits on existing walls during siding replacement, good for reducing conductive losses through the framing   
Weaknesses: In order to maintain wall stiffness and strength metal braces must be used across the studs which is a little more labor than traditional framing, strapping may be required outside of the foam board to make an even surface for siding, windows and doors may have to have jamb extensions to match the added wall thickness

Common Name(s): Double wall construction
R-value per Inch:varies depending on wall thickness and types of insulation used
Strengths or Best Use: A framing technique where a second exterior wall is built inside the main exterior wall. the outer wall typically has a continuous air an vapor barrier, electrical penetrations remain within the inner wall. Both walls and the space between are insulated for a very high total R-value and reduced heat loss through framing members
Weaknesses: increased framing materials, increased labor, some learning curve for the DIY builder, windows and doors have to have jamb extensions to match the added wall thickness 

For more information on what type of insulation is best for you please visit Sandium.Com

Article Courtesy of Insulation-Guide

Energy audits may be beneficial for both home buyers and sellers

Energy audits can save buyers thousands of dollars in future operating costs. One real estate broker says they help sell houses — even raise prices — rather than wrecking deals. 

WASHINGTON — It may be the best-kept secret in residential real estate: For a couple of hundred dollars, a potential buyer bidding on an existing house can ask for a formal energy audit along with the standard inspection clause. That audit, in turn, can save the buyer thousands of dollars in future operating costs and pinpoint the specific features of the house that need correction to improve efficiency. It might also be a tipoff to a sobering reality: This house is an energy guzzler. Either the asking price comes down, the seller fixes the problems or I walk.

Though energy audits have been available to consumers for years — the best known is the Home Energy Rating System — virtually nobody in the real estate field promotes them to buyers. Of the 120,000 HERS audits completed last year in the country, according to experts, just 12,000 were done on existing houses — a trivial number in a market with 4.5 million resales. The rest were performed on newly built homes.

Since energy costs rank high on the list of ongoing expenses for many homeowners, and multiple studies have demonstrated that energy-efficiency renovations more than pay for themselves in utilities savings, why aren't more audits performed? In an era of $4-a-gallon gas and autos that are marketed on the basis of their low fuel consumption, shouldn't buyers know about the operating costs of the houses they are bidding on? Shouldn't energy audit contingency clauses in purchase contracts be as commonplace as home inspection clauses?

Realty agents who primarily list houses and represent sellers say buyers almost never ask for them. Nor do sellers, who prefer to avoid giving purchasers ammunition to make costly demands for repairs before closing.

Even real estate agents who carry the "EcoBroker" green designation don't necessarily push the subject. Frances Vernon, an EcoBroker with Dilbeck Real Estate Real Living in La Cañada Flintridge, said that she's "never been asked by a buyer or seller" to order a HERS energy audit on a house. "It's just not done here. It's not a pressing issue."

June Gardner, an EcoBroker with the Evers & Co. realty firm in Washington, D.C, says "it's not on people's minds really. They're much more worried about mold or radon and lead paint" — the sort of defects that standard home inspections turn up.

Of four EcoBroker designees randomly selected for interviews around the country, only one said he regularly recommends energy audits to both sellers and purchasers, and finds that they help sell houses — even raise prices — rather than wrecking deals.

Leland DiMeco, owner and principal broker of Boston Green Realty, said although not all clients opt for an energy audit, "I do bring it to the table" with everyone. "It just makes sense. Most buyers want to feel comfortable that they've done their due diligence and know what they're getting." Even sellers are warming to the idea.

DiMeco recently made the energy audit pitch to a seller of an 87-year-old New England colonial that had significant energy leakage and efficiency problems. The seller agreed to do a HERS audit, then spent money putting spray cellulose insulation in the attic, replacing the leakiest windows, upgrading interior lighting and replacing some low-efficiency appliances.

The result: Shoppers loved seeing the energy audit, the upgrades and the seller's full disclosures. The house sold six days after listing for $50,000 more than nearby, energy-wasting comparable homes. Doing the HERS audit "turned out to be a great marketing benefit for the sellers," said DiMeco, even though they needed some convincing upfront.

Steve Baden, executive director of the Residential Energy Services Network, the organization that trains and certifies inspectors conducting HERS audits, says that although the "adoption rate" on existing homes "has been low," builders of new homes have been enthusiastic. Forty percent of homes constructed in the country now get HERS audits and scores, he said.

About 4,000 auditors are certified to conduct HERS studies. They can be found, along with information on contractors to do energy-efficiency improvements, at http://www.RESNET.us. Equally important to home buyers, said Baden: RESNET has negotiated agreements with two of the largest home inspection networks to begin offering lower-cost energy-efficiency surveys and performance audits as add-ons to standard inspections. Once this becomes commonplace, there may be little need for separate contract contingencies for an energy audit: Energy efficiency will just be part of the package.

Distributed by Washington Post Writers Group. By Kenneth R. Harney

To see if your home is running efficiently or is a energy guzzler visit Sandium.com

Central Air Conditioners

Central air conditioners circulate cool air through a system of supply and return ducts. Supply ducts and registers (i.e., openings in the walls, floors, or ceilings covered by grills) carry cooled air from the air conditioner to the home. This cooled air becomes warmer as it circulates through the home; then it flows back to the central air conditioner through return ducts and registers.

Air conditioners help to dehumidify the incoming air, but in extremely humid climates or in cases where the air conditioner is oversized, it may not achieve a low humidity. Running a dehumidifier in your air conditioned home will increase your energy use, both for the dehumidifier itself and because the air conditioner will require more energy to cool your house. A preferable alternative is a dehumidifying heat pipe, which can be added as a retrofit to most existing systems.

Types of Central Air Conditioners

A central air conditioner is either a split-system unit or a packaged unit.

In a split-system central air conditioner, an outdoor metal cabinet contains the condenser and compressor, and an indoor cabinet contains the evaporator. In many split-system air conditioners, this indoor cabinet also contains a furnace or the indoor part of a heat pump. The air conditioner's evaporator coil is installed in the cabinet or main supply duct of this furnace or heat pump. If your home already has a furnace but no air conditioner, a split-system is the most economical central air conditioner to install.

In a packaged central air conditioner, the evaporator, condenser, and compressor are all located in one cabinet, which usually is placed on a roof or on a concrete slab next to the house's foundation. This type of air conditioner also is used in small commercial buildings. Air supply and return ducts come from indoors through the home's exterior wall or roof to connect with the packaged air conditioner, which is usually located outdoors. Packaged air conditioners often include electric heating coils or a natural gas furnace. This combination of air conditioner and central heater eliminates the need for a separate furnace indoors.

Choosing or Upgrading Your Central Air Conditioner

Central air conditioners are more efficient than room air conditioners. In addition, they are out of the way, quiet, and convenient to operate. To save energy and money, you should try to buy an energy-efficient air conditioner and reduce your central air conditioner's energy use. In an average air-conditioned home, air conditioning consumes more than 2000 kilowatt-hours of electricity per year, causing power plants to emit about 3500 pounds of carbon dioxide and 31 pounds of sulfur dioxide.

If you are considering adding central air conditioning to your home, the deciding factor may be the need for ductwork. See the section on limitations when replacing existing systems for more information.

If you have an older central air conditioner, you might choose to replace the outdoor compressor with a modern, high-efficiency unit. If you do so, consult a local heating and cooling contractor to assure that the new compressor is properly matched to the indoor unit. However, considering recent changes in refrigerants and air conditioning designs, it might be wiser to replace the entire system.

Today's best air conditioners use 30%–50% less energy to produce the same amount of cooling as air conditioners made in the mid 1970s. Even if your air conditioner is only 10 years old, you may save 20%–40% of your cooling energy costs by replacing it with a newer, more efficient model.

Proper sizing and installation are key elements in determining air conditioner efficiency. Too large a unit will not adequately remove humidity. Too small a unit will not be able to attain a comfortable temperature on the hottest days. Improper unit location, lack of insulation, and improper duct installation can greatly diminish efficiency.

When buying an air conditioner, look for a model with a high efficiency. Central air conditioners are rated according to their seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER). SEER indicates the relative amount of energy needed to provide a specific cooling output. Many older systems have SEER ratings of 6 or less. The minimum SEER allowed today is 13. Look for the ENERGY STAR® label for central air conditioners with SEER ratings of 13 or greater, but consider using air conditioning equipment with higher SEER ratings for greater savings.

New residential central air conditioner standards went into effect on January 23, 2006. Air conditioners manufactured after January 26, 2006 must achieve a Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER) of 13 or higher. SEER 13 is 30% more efficient than the previous minimum SEER of 10. The standard applies only to appliances manufactured after January 23, 2006. Equipment with a rating less than SEER 13 manufactured before this date may still be sold and installed.

The average homeowner will remain unaffected by this standard change for some time to come. The standards do not require you to change your existing central air conditioning units, and replacement parts and services should still be available for your home's systems. The "lifespan" of a central air conditioner is about 15 to 20 years. Manufacturers typically continue to support existing equipment by making replacement parts available and honoring maintenance contracts after the new standard goes into effect.

Other Features to Look For When Buying an Air Conditioner:

• A thermal expansion valve and a high-temperature rating (EER) greater than 11.6, for high-efficiency operation when the weather is at its hottest
• A variable speed air handler for new ventilation systems
• A unit that operates quietly
• A fan-only switch, so you can use the unit for nighttime ventilation to substantially reduce air-conditioning costs
• A filter check light to remind you to check the filter after a predetermined number of operating hours
• An automatic-delay fan switch to turn off the fan a few minutes after the compressor turns off.

Installation and Location of Air Conditioners

If your air conditioner is installed correctly, or if major installation problems are found and fixed, it will perform efficiently for years with only minor routine maintenance. However, many air conditioners are not installed correctly. As an unfortunate result, modern energy-efficient air conditioners can perform almost as poorly as older inefficient models.

Be sure that your contractor performs the following procedures when installing a new central air conditioning system:

• Allows adequate indoor space for the installation, maintenance, and repair of the new system, and installs an access door in the furnace or duct to provide a way to clean the evaporator coil
• Uses a duct-sizing methodology such as the Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA) Manual D
• Ensures there are enough supply registers to deliver cool air and enough return air registers to carry warm house air back to the air conditioner
• Installs duct work within the conditioned space, not in the attic, wherever possible
• Seals all ducts with duct mastic and heavily insulates attic ducts
• Locates the condensing unit where its noise will not keep you or your neighbors awake at night, if possible
• Locates the condensing unit where no nearby objects will block the flow of air to it
• Verifies that the newly installed air conditioner has the exact refrigerant charge and air flow rate specified by the manufacturer
• Locates the thermostat away from heat sources, such as windows or supply registers.

If you are replacing an older or failed split system, be sure that the evaporator coil is replaced with a new one that exactly matches the condenser coil in the new condensing unit. (The air conditioner's efficiency will likely not improve if the existing evaporator coil is left in place; in fact, the old coil could cause the new compressor to fail prematurely.)

For more information on air conditioners please visit Sandium.Com

Article Courtesy of Energy Savers

Geothermal Heat Pumps

The shallow ground, the upper 10 feet of the Earth, maintains a nearly constant temperature between 50° and 60°F (10°-16°C). Like a cave, this ground temperature is warmer than the air above it in the winter and cooler than the air in the summer. Geothermal heat pumps take advantage of this resource to heat and cool buildings.
Geothermal heat pump systems consist of basically three parts: the ground heat exchanger, the heat pump unit, and the air delivery system (ductwork). The heat exchanger is basically a system of pipes called a loop, which is buried in the shallow ground near the building. A fluid (usually water or a mixture of water and antifreeze) circulates through the pipes to absorb or relinquish heat within the ground.

In the winter, the heat pump removes heat from the heat exchanger and pumps it into the indoor air delivery system. In the summer, the process is reversed, and the heat pump moves heat from the indoor air into the heat exchanger. The heat removed from the indoor air during the summer can also be used to heat water, providing a free source of hot water.
Geothermal heat pumps use much less energy than conventional heating systems, since they draw heat from the ground. They are also more efficient when cooling your home. Not only does this save energy and money, it reduces air pollution.
All areas of the United States have nearly constant shallow-ground temperatures, which are suitable for geothermal heat pumps.

To learn more about Geothermal heating systems visit Sandium.Com
Article courtesy of Renewable Energy World

Blast Magazine: “HealthPro Plus is best air purifier ever.”

IQAir HealthPro Plus

All the hundreds and thousands of dollars that people spend on devices and chemicals designed to eliminate allergens and make their homes smell better — it’s a waste. You need one product to improve the air quality in your home, and it’s the same device that hospitals use to purify air in some operating rooms. It’s the same company that’s been in business for 45 years. It’s not available in the Sharper Image catalog.

The Swiss-made IQAir HealthPro Plus is simply the best air purifier on the market today or ever.

Around 100x more powerful than a traditional HEPA filter, the HealthPro Plus eliminates particles down to 0.003 microns. It strips viruses, pet dander, dust mites, air pollution and harmful cigarette smoke. It allows you to live with a dog or cat despite your allergies.

It’s good for asthma, too.

Depending on where you live, an air purifier is a must-own device. Save yourself money, trouble, and failure. At under $1,000, this is an investment in your health. I’ve used the IQAir HealthPro Plus for months, and it’s the best air purifier you can own.

You can read the full article here

For more information on Swiss IQAir visit Sandium.Com

If it looks like this- then you should give us a call!

If your air conditioner looks like this it is probably costing you a arm and a leg in utility bills during the summer months. It is time for a upgrade.. Visit Sandium.Com to set up an appointment to look at new air conditioners.