Showing posts with label energy star. Show all posts
Showing posts with label energy star. Show all posts

Wednesday, January 23, 2013

HVAC Energy Ratings: Knowing These May Help You Save Money



Selecting the most energy-efficient a / c and home heating system is a lot more important than ever before, as San Francisco Bay Area utility prices consistently rise. However, deciding which heating or cooling system is the most efficient isn't necessarily as simple as it appears. HVAC energy measurements can often be perplexing.

HVAC energy measurements

The heating, ventilation and cooling industry (HVAC) utilizes an variety of measuring scales to show the energy efficiency of household cooling and heating systems. The Energy Star rating system, established by the US Department of Energy (DOE) in 1992, gives shoppers ways to tell right away if an appliance meets the DOE’s minimum efficiency standards. Search for a large, yellow sticker along the side of the unit. This system also allows you to easily do a comparison of two products manufactured by different companies.

The annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE) presents consumers a solid idea of how good a heater performs. This number is indicated in a percentage. For example, an AFUE of 90 shows that the home heating system is 90 % efficient.

The seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER) measures the cooling effectiveness of heat pumps and a / c system. The greater the ratio, the more efficient the device. To become qualified as an Energy Star-rated appliance, a unit will need to have a rating of a minimum of 12, but you'll find systems available with ratios as high as 20.

The heating seasonal performance factor (HSPF) measures the efficiency of heat pumps. The amount is the total heat generated by the pump (in Btus) throughout a single heating season.

If you want help understanding HVAC energy measurements or in selecting the comfort system that’s best for your home and family, let Sandium Heating & Air serving the south SF bay area assist you throughout the procedure of analyzing, purchasing and setting up a new central air or home heating system. We’ve been helping the San Jose bay area home owners with their heating and air conditioning needs for over a decade. Call us at (408) 894-9072 to arrange a free consultation.

Friday, November 9, 2012

How to Save Energy During the Winter Months


Energy saving tips for the winter season will help to keep more money in your wallet and save energy during the cold season. Most techniques below are cheap and pretty easy to implement. Other methods require energy upgrade investments from your local HVAC company that will pay off over time in energy savings.
To manage your heating bill, turn the thermostat down when you are not home, when you go to bed at night or when you have a house full of guests. Before winter hits , make sure that your thermostats are functioning properly. Set the temperature at the most 68 degrees. With a programmable thermostat you can schedule when you would like to have your heating on.
If you are able replace single pane windows with double-pane windows.  If you can't replace your windows you can reduce drafts by attaching a clear plastic film or heavy-duty, plastic clear sheet on your windows.
Heavy curtains or blinds will help to keep the warm air in and the cold air out. Weatherstripping is another simple step in keeping the warmth inside the house. Besides weatherstripping your windows you should weatherize your pipes, vents, doors and water heaters.
The attic and basement are usually where you will find air leaks. Evaluate whether your attic is sufficiently insulated. If it has the insulation of less than R-30 (11" for fiber glass, 8" for cellulose), it needs to be enhanced. You should also check if you need to add the insulation to your basement and your crawl space. Call your local HVAC company to have your insulation performance checked. 
Have all your heating equipment checked by a professional contractor. It is a wise decision to replace older equipment with an energy-efficient model.
Warm air travels up and builds up near the ceiling. Switch your ceiling fan to run in a clockwise direction to dispense the air and move warm air around the room.
If you tend to stay in one room of the house for most of the day, you might consider a space heater for that room only. Close the vents in the rooms you are not using. You could also invest in a new zoned heating thermostat so that you could set the temperature for each room idividually. 
Clean air filters in your heating system to increase energy efficiency and airflow. These filters need to be checked once a month, and replaced when dirty- it may be monthly or every other month.
19% of an average electricity bill comes from water heating. You can lower the bill by using less hot water, turn down the thermostat, insulate your water heater, or investing in an energy-efficient model. When installing the insulation make sure you follow the manufacturer's recommendations or hire a licensed contractor.
By following these winter energy saving tips you can keep your home more comfortable during winter, save money and help the environment too.

Monday, October 29, 2012

Insulation, Sealing Air Leaks - A Green Remodel to help Cut Power Bills



How would you like to dramatically slash your electricity bill as much as 85%? Superinsulating a house can significantly enhance the energy performance of an old house. These so-called  deep energy retrofits achieve household energy as much as 85% by addressing all (or almost all) energy loads - space conditioning, warm water, lighting, home appliances, and plug loads - or even transportation. Energy cutbacks of this magnitude require a rigorous and extensive systems approach: The natural associations among energy, indoor quality of air, sturdiness, and thermal comfort should be honored throughout construction and designs. Passive photo voltaic design and renewable energy systems are typical during these projects.
The objectives of any house energy retrofit can be like those of a brand new green residence, however like all remodels, a big difference is basically you have to deal with a pre-existing building. Below are a few house systems with particular areas you should focus on.
1. Upgrade Your Home's Windows

With the top and bottom of the home sealed tightly and insulated, the very next prospect will be the walls. Did you know that old 
and outdated windows is like having a significant hole in your wall? While functioning poorly, they often leak both water and air into the house. Correctly mounted, Energy Star (or even better) windows seal off the gaps in the walls to hold out water and climate extremes.
2. Modernize The Mechanical Equipment

A classic heater or central heating boiler is frequently the worst energy user within an old house. Many houses built just before 
1920 have old coal-fired central heating boilers which were transformed into gas or oil. These models are workhorses, but use lots of energy. A brand new furnace or boiler can help to save energy dollars immediately. Changing window air conditioning units, which we did in most these houses, having a central system may also save energy immediately, as lengthy because the tubes continues to be put into the conditioned space. Photo voltaic water heating is a great choice to add here if you're able to afford it, but at the
minimum, upgrade the efficiency of warm water production by coupling the tank towards the boiler.
3. Bring The Basement And Crawlspace Inside Your Home

Warm, dry cellars and crawlspaces can extend living and space for storage. Wet cellars 
are the source of high humidity levels and discomfort in the summertime in old houses. They can also cause mold growth that will get distributed throughout the house. Spray foam is really a fast, efficient way to create these areas in to the conditioned space while sealing the leaks between foundation and floor framework.
4. Super-insulate And Air-seal The Roofing

If air leaks in at the bottom of the home, it leaks out at the very top, making a home cold and drafty in the winter months. A poorly 
insulated roof also can produce a hot house in summer time. Air-sealing is really a by-product of excellent insulation, so it’s a real one-step process. Using spray foam within roof may also eliminate the requirement for roof ventilation, that is tricky in complicated roofs.
5. Insulate Your Walls

Filling empty wall cavities with cellulose is really a cheap, easy, efficient way to warm-up a classic house. Blowing cellulose 
into existing wall tooth decay is definitely an art, to be certain, but you will find many companies who've been doing the work for a long time. Actually, you will find now affordable methods to seek advice from infrared cameras to make certain that voids happen to be filled without disturbing the present plaster or sheathing on outdoors walls. Because siding or shingles on old houses may also normally wear out, we go ahead and take chance to set up foam sheathing around the outdoors of the home before re-siding.
6. Get Energy Star (or even better)

Fittings, home appliances, and lighting after you have reduced your parking space conditioning and water-heating loads, the 
lighting, appliance, and plug load will probably be your next large energy item. A brand new Energy Star refrigerator uses 15% less energy than the usual standard model. Changing old light fittings with pin-based compact fluorescent fittings guarantees your utility bill will remain lower (as much as 30%).
7. Put In A Renewable-Energy Supply

When your energy consumption continues to be reduced considerably, it might be reasonable to create your personal energy with 
systems such as photovoltaics, wind energy, or hydro, if you possess a stream nearby. Before you slash the energy usage, though, it isn't worth the money in renewable energy sources. Conservation remains the least expensive game around.

Monday, September 24, 2012

Energy-Efficient HVAC Solutions For Your Home - Heating and Cooling Green



In today's environmentally conscious world, everyone wants to do their part for a more sustainable future. But it's hard to know what you can do to limit your impact on the planet. One of the easiest and most eco-friendly choices is to install an energy-efficient heating and cooling system in your home for dramatically reduced energy usage. And, as if that wasn't enough, the lower energy consumption of these heating systems will also help you save big bucks on your bills! In fact, some Energy Star rated HVAC systems can save you up to 30% on heating and cooling.
Solar Heating Systems
Solar heating systems are a great hot water heating solution that's eco-friendly and has extremely low operating costs. These systems can provide up to 80% of your home's hot water for major energy cost savings. Used to heat hot water, pools, and water for radiant heating, solar heating systems harness the free energy of the sun. And, although solar hot water heating can be expensive to install, it usually pays for itself in less than five years (in reduced energy bills and government incentives). Once the equipment is paid off, you have almost zero operating costs.
Hybrid Heat Pumps
Hybrid heat pumps are efficient combinations of gas furnaces and traditional heat pumps; blending two energy-efficient systems allows this hybrid to get the best of both worlds! Heat pumps function quite efficiently during warm months, but at cold temperatures they typically lose their effectiveness. Hybrid heat pumps work like a hybrid vehicle, turning on the gas furnace when necessary to supplement the efficiency of the heat pump. Switching between the two heat (and cooling) sources allows the system to automatically adjust for optimal function.
Ground Source Heat Pumps (Geothermal Heating and Cooling)
Ground source heat pumps are among the most efficient heating and cooling options on the market today. They're eco-friendly as well as inexpensive. This specialized type of heat pump utilizes the relatively constant temperature of ground to heat your home in winter and cool it in summer. A loop of piping is installed in the ground near or under your house, and liquid (antifreeze or water) flowing through the loop heats or cools your home depending on the season. In summer, the soil is relatively cool, so it chills the liquid, which in turn cools your home; in winter, the soil is warmer, heating the liquid. Ground source heat pumps are a completely safe method of heating and cooling your home with a renewable alternative to fossil fuels. They can even reduce your home heating costs by up to 70%!
Radiant Floor Heating
Radiant heating is another environmentally-friendly heating solution that has gained popularity in recent years. Radiant heat functions by circulating heated water through pex tubing in your flooring. This warms the floor and radiates heat throughout your space as the warmth from the flooring rises. Because the tubing must be installed under the flooring, radiant floor heating is recommended for new construction or during major remodels. However, despite the expense and hassle of installation, many homeowners love the energy-efficiency and great tactile experience of radiant heating. Just imagine walking across a toasty-warm floor instead of icy cold tile! Radiant heat can be used as a whole house heating system or installed in individual rooms (commonly kitchens and bathrooms).
Consult your local HVAC contractor to learn more about these different energy-efficient options for heating and cooling your home. They'll be able to give you expert advice about your specific area and help you select the best HVAC system for your needs. If you're ready to switch to green heating, new energy-efficient systems are the answer you've been seeking!

Friday, September 21, 2012

Energy and HVAC Optimization




Let's talk about 30-40% of your electricity bill. That's how much it costs the average homeowner or commercial building owner to provide proper heating, ventilating, and air-conditioning (HVAC). A good HVAC system is the key to maintaining a comfortable, healthy and interior environment. Through the years, I have been asked by many owners for a strategy to reduce their cost of energy and HVAC. They don't want to sacrifice the interior environmental conditions, but they do want a point-by-point plan to follow. The interesting thing that often happens is that energy bills are lowered substantially and the HVAC system performance is improved. This is a standard function of any mechanical engineer specializing in energy and HVAC.
The information on this page will help homeowners, building owners and building operators make informed decisions about existing HVAC systems or future upgrades.
  • Load Reduction
  • HVAC Systems
  • Control Systems
  • Operation and Maintenance
Load Reduction
The first step to achieve energy and HVAC system optimization is load reduction. This step normally consists of a long range plan which itemizes the actions to be taken based on best return on investment. Reducing your building load allows the existing HVAC system to operate more efficiently. If a new system or systems are being considered, it will be more cost effective to design for the reduced load as opposed to the existing load. A few common load reduction strategies include:
  • Tighten the building shell and add additional insulation. Adding insulation in existing buildings may not be achievable in some instances, so more consideration should be aimed at the exterior shell, especially windows and doors.
  • Installing energy-efficient windows. This is a big item on some buildings that still have single pane windows. The installation of double pane windows with a thermal break is a great return on investment. Make sure they are ENERGY STAR qualified windows. Tinting or Low-E coatings will even be better.
  • Upgrading lighting systems. The average commercial building has a lighting density of 2-3 watts per square foot which maintains proper lighting levels. This is a significant part of the HVAC load and almost any efforts in this direction will lower the cooling requirement for the building. Accent lighting (sometimes called architectural lighting) are not always energy efficient and should not be considered if you want to reduce energy and HVAC costs. Energy-efficient lighting systems emit less heat into conditioned space than older incandescent technology. If you have a return air plenum instead of return air ductwork, consider light troffers so that some of the heat from the lights is returned to the HVAC system instead of going into the occupied area.
  • Selecting efficient equipment and electronic devices that have a power saver option will reduce the sensible heat gain in the space. Items to consider include copy machines, kitchen equipment, computers and refrigerators.
  • Control ventilation by having your outside air balanced. Most building owners have drawings of the original HVAC system installation. Have the drawings reviewed by a mechanical engineer to confirm your outside air flow rates conform to the latest code requirements. If no drawings are available, your mechanical engineer should still be able to make recommendations for improvement.
Addressing these items is your first step to reducing energy and HVAC costs.
HVAC Systems
The second step to achieve energy and HVAC system optimization is knowing your system. Your HVAC system is critical to your interior environment, but it also represents a large component of your utility expenses. While it is beyond the scope of this article to discuss every system, a few recommendations can be addressed. Every HVAC system component has increased in efficiency over the years. If your system is more than 13 years old, it's time to begin planning for an upgrade to new equipment. Well maintained residential systems have a life expectancy of about 15 years or so but seem to fail at the worse times. Have a replacement plan ready for the day your equipment fails.
Commercial systems vary, but if your building is using packaged equipment or split systems, the same lifetime can be expected. For larger commercial systems and industrial applications, the HVAC system may be more complex and require an individual analysis by a mechanical engineer. As I said, HVAC systems vary and no one-size-fits-all analysis works for larger systems. What all these systems have in common is they are normally fueled by electricity. Electricity cost money, so any efforts in the direction of increased efficiency is a plus.
HVAC System Tips:
  • Find a qualified consultant you trust. If you are a home owner or small commercial building owner, find a good HVAC company or mechanic to evaluate and maintain your system. If you are a large commercial building owner, find a commercial HVAC company for normal maintenance and a good mechanical engineer for specific guidance. I do not recommend using a mechanical engineer employed by the HVAC Company; find a third party engineer for unbiased information.
  • Verify your HVAC system load. Home owners should use ACCA's Manual J calculation method and all others should have a load conducted by a mechanical engineer. Commercial buildings have more requirements related to code conformance, minimum ventilation rates, etc and are individual to each building.
  • Load reduction-Read the information above.
  • Select equipment sized for your load. NEVER OVERSIZE! More-is-better does not apply for HVAC systems. It will cost more to purchase the equipment as well as operate it. Get the load and the equipment selection right the first time.
  • Purchase high efficiency or Energy Star equipment. Many of the new systems include variable speed drives for fans and compressors. Over the years of ownership this will be paid back many times over. Compare standard efficiency equipment to high efficiency equipment in terms of initial cost and life cycle costs. Any good HVAC company or mechanical engineer can obtain this information.
  • Consider some form of energy recovery for any air exhausted from the building and use it to condition the incoming fresh air. This is air you have paid to condition, so extracting some of the energy before exhausting it should be a priority.
  • For large commercial buildings, consider conditioning the outside air with a dedicated outside air unit. This will eliminate any problems related to humidity control in most instances. It will also increase occupant comfort and allow for further downsizing of equipment.
  • Commercial buildings should consider economizers on their equipment. Most current codes require economizers on equipment over 15 tons in size. Often available at a low incremental cost, these units draw in fresh air from the outside when the temperature (sometimes humidity) outside is lower than the temperature inside.
  • Home owners and small commercial building owners should install programmable thermostats. Commercial building owners should install a Direct Digital Control (DDC) system. The investment in either of these will pay back more than the cost in a small amount of time. Read more below.
Control Systems
The third step to achieve energy and HVAC system optimization is controlling your system.
  • Programmable Thermostats-The age of digital controls has made saving energy easy. One of the best investments for the homeowner or small commercial building owner is a programmable thermostat. These are simple to use and incorporate strategies based on time scheduling. Most manufacturers offer 7 day programs and setback/setup programs which will turn the HVAC system on and off to compliment your schedule and desired indoor temperature. This is a great way to ensure HVAC systems are used only when necessary.
  • DDC Systems-For the large commercial building, I consider this as a must have system. Installation costs have steadily decreased and the performance reliability has steadily increased. They can be integrated into any system and expanded as required. Some of the more popular features of these systems are optimized start/stop of the HVAC system, multiple zone control, multiple temperature sensor locations and ventilation control. The best part of these systems is their ability to be scaled up to the largest of commercial applications. This means you can install a simple system and add more controls later to incorporate your whole HVAC system. Again, the payback is short and well worth the investment.
Operation and Maintenance
The fourth and last step to achieve energy and HVAC system optimization is operation and maintenance. The most efficient HVAC systems are well maintained. Ensure reliability, efficiency and a long life for your HVAC system by following these tips.
  • Find a qualified consultant you trust. If you are a home owner or small commercial building owner, find a good HVAC company or mechanic to evaluate and maintain your system. If you are a large commercial building owner, find a commercial HVAC company for normal maintenance. Make sure you record and document all servicing with dates, times and names of the servicing person.
  • Home owners should always get a seasonal tune up. The operation of your system will vary with the seasons of the year.
  • Replace your air filters regularly. Don't use anything less then a MERV 5 filter to assure dust and fibers are removed. Clean filters will save fan energy.
  • Coil Cleaning-This is always a big item overlooked by residential and commercial building owners. Condenser coils collect dirt and debris on their surfaces because they are outside. This makes the compressor work harder and results in a higher refrigerant temperature in your refrigeration system. Evaporator and heating coils collect dust and fibers that circulate inside your home or building. Clean them at least once a year
Summary
Energy and HVAC optimization will reduce your electricity costs. A little time getting to know your system and familiarizing yourself with improvement strategies will save money and increase the life of your equipment.
Visit Sandium.Com for more information.
Visit my site for more information on Energy and HVAC optimization.
I am a professional engineer with over 30 years of design experience relating to plumbing and mechanical systems. The articles I write are the result of many successful commercial and residential installations.

Tuesday, August 28, 2012

14 Ways To Lower Your Heating Bill



There's good news and bad news if you're a homeowner who's bracing yourself for the annual rise in winter heating costs: The bill won't hurt more this year, but it won't hurt much less.
The Energy Information Administration forecasts that the average household heating fuel expenditures this winter will decrease to $928 per household, down from $947 last year. This is the first price drop since the winter of 2001-2002.
If you hope to save more than the projected $19, there are many steps you can take.
"There's a lot of things that the entrepreneurial homeowner can do, if he's a little bit handy," says John Ryan, team leader for commercial buildings for the Building Technologies Program in the Department of Energy's Office of Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy, who has spent years thinking about efficiency in homes.
Here are more than a dozen simple steps you can take to slash your home's heating bill. Six steps cost nothing. Eight more cost under $100. Combine them, and you can often expect to save 20% — and possibly much, much more — on your home heating bill this winter. And some new federal tax breaks even sweeten the opportunity.
Grab that free, low-hanging fruitFirst, the freebies. These strategies may sound simplistic, but they work well:
    Turn down the thermostat. "The rule of thumb is that you can save about 3% on your heating bill for every degree that you set back your thermostat" full time, says Bill Prindle, deputy director for the nonprofit American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy (ACEEE). Turn down the thermostat 10 degrees when you go to work, and again when you go to bed -- a total of 16 hours a day -- and you can save about 14% on your heating bill, says Prindle.
      Use fans wisely. In just one hour, a hard-working bathroom or kitchen fan can expel a houseful of warm air, according to the Department of Energy. Turn them off as soon as they've done their job.
      Keep the fireplace damper closed. Heat rises, and an open damper is like a hole in the roof. Also, limit use of the fireplace, since fires actually suck heat from a room, says Harvey Sachs, director of ACEEE's buildings program. Close off seldom-used rooms. And shut the vents inside.
      Turn down the water heater. Lowering the temperature of water in the water heater to 115-120 degrees reduces power use often without a noticeable difference to the user, says Prindle.
      Keep heating vents clear. Vents blocked by rugs and furniture prevent heated air from circulating efficiently.
      Use curtains. Opening curtains and shades on south-facing windows during the day allows solar radiation to warm a living space; closing all curtains at night helps retard the escape of that heat.
Web sites on the topic abound, but one of the best is run by the Department of Energy.
Low-cost fixesSo you've put the easiest, and free, ideas to work. Now you can really make a dent in that heating bill with one cheap trip to a hardware store (Home Depot, for example, has all of the items below) and a few hours of work
Block that leak!The small gaps surrounding windows, doors and other areas in the American house, taken together, are like a 9-square-foot hole in the wall, according to EarthWorks Group's "30 Simple Energy Things You Can Do to Save the Earth." Plugging them can save you up to 10% on that heating bill, and the materials will pay for themselves within a year, ACEEE says.
First, find the leaks: On a windy day, hold a lit incense stick to the most common drafty areas: chimney flashing, recessed lighting, sill plates, window and door frames, all ducts and flues and electrical outlets.
Buy door sweeps ($3-$10) to close spaces under exterior doors, and caulk ($2-$5 per roll, plus a $10 caulk gun) or tacky rope caulk to block those drafty spots around window frames. Apply weather-stripping ($3-$6 for up to 17 feet) to movable joints. Outlet gaskets ($10 for 10) can easily be installed in electrical outlets in a home's outer walls, where cold air often enters.
Keep your ducts in a rowA home that uses ductwork to move heated air can lose up to 60% of that air before it reaches the vents if the ducts are poorly connected, not well insulated and travel through unheated spaces such as the attic or crawlspace, says the government. "If you are a halfway savvy do-it-yourselfer, and your ductwork and heating and air-conditioning equipment are in the attic, you can do an awful lot to fix your system, at low cost," says Sachs.
First, look for obvious places in the attic, basement or in crawlspaces where ducts have become disconnected. Reconnect them, and fix places where pipes are pinched, which impedes flow of heated air to the house, says the Department of Energy's Ryan.
Fix remaining gaps with tape, but don't use traditional duct tape, which deteriorates; instead, use metal-backed tape ($6-$10 per roll) or aerosol sealant. Where possible, wrap the ducts' exterior with special duct insulation ($8-$12 for 15 feet). Though the cost will be substantially more, it's a good idea to get a professional to help insulate ducts when electrical wires or lighting fixtures are nearby.
Other tips:
    Swaddle water heater and pipes. Unless you've got a newer water heater that already has built-in insulation, covering your water heater with an insulated "jacket" ($17-$20) will keep costs down, especially if your heater is in an unheated place like a garage. Also, wrap water pipes ($1-$5 per 5-foot section) when possible, especially when they run through uninsulated areas.
      Winterize windows. If you can't afford storm windows, put plastic film on those windows ($6 covers three windows) where a clear view isn't crucial, which will curb drafts and keep windows from rattling.
      Buy a low-flow shower head. A water-efficient shower head (often less than $20) can use 25% to 50% less hot water, saving both on water and power bills, with little to no reduction in user satisfaction, says Prindle.
      Buy a smart thermostat. If you're the kind of person who forgets to turn the temperature down at night and before work, but who doesn't mind programming things like the TV remote control, a "smart" thermostat ($50-$100) can be set to change the temperature for you.
      Keep your furnace in shape. "It's amazing how often a heating or air conditioning unit stops working because a $3 or $15 air filter is clogged," says Sachs. Replace the air filter ($4-$16) according to manufacturer's directions and your heating system will operate more efficiently. Oil-fired boilers should be cleaned and tuned annually, and gas systems, every two years($100-$125). By maintaining your heating unit, you can save between 3% and 10% on heating bills, says ACEEE.
      Look for other insulation opportunities. Some well-placed insulation, especially in the attic of older homes, can save a bundle ($7-$16, in rolls from 22-32 feet, depending on insulation value).
First, however, Sachs recommends going into the attic and looking for black-stained areas on the edges of the fiberglass. That's dust, and it shows where air is flowing up out of the living space. Sealing that area first will do more good than simply piling on more insulation.
By following all of the aforementioned strategies, the owner of an older home can likely save much more than 20% on heating bills, he says.
Thinking big So you've spent the minimum and will now save a noticeable chunk of money. What else can you do in the future? Replace appliances, heating units, light fixtures and bulbs with high-efficiency replacements.
It costs money to save money, however. While an adequate vinyl window might cost $100-$150, a double-paned window with a low e-rating (that's a good thing) can cost $50-$100 more, says Nevil Eastwood, director of construction and environmental resources for Habitat for Humanity International in Georgia. "That adds up when you've got 15 windows in your house," Eastwood acknowledges.
Many experts therefore recommend buying high-efficiency windows and appliances as their predecessors wear out and you need to replace them anyway. Over time, the extra cost is recouped in improved efficiency.
"If your furnace is over 20 years old, you're probably paying far more to use it," says Maria Vargas, spokeswoman for Energy Star, a federal-government-backed program that promotes energy efficiency and that lends its name to energy-saving products. Furnaces bearing the Energy Star label are about 15% more efficient than a standard conventional model, says Vargas.
A Chicago resident might pay an Energy Star premium of $1,400 or so on an average home furnace for that area, Vargas says, but the savings pay off the extra cost in three or four years.
Many utilities offer discounts or rebates on energy-saving products. Call and ask. Loans are also sometimes available for major improvements that will incorporate energy-efficient products or to purchase a high-efficiency home.
Thank you, Washington (sort of)The Energy Policy Act of 2005 gives most of its $14.5 billion in tax breaks over the next 10 years to businesses, but it does throw a few bones to homeowners, says CCH Inc., a provider of tax and accounting information and software.
Homeowners who make energy-efficient improvements to existing homes can qualify for a 10% tax credit, up to $500. A credit is a dollar-for-dollar reduction in taxes, compared with a deduction, which only decreases taxable income. Improvements that can qualify include adding insulation, metal roofs coated with heat-reducing pigments, and energy-efficient windows, doors and skylights (though only $200 can come from windows).
Other items that meet certain criteria qualify for the credit with specific limitations, according to CCH: Advanced main air circulating fans can earn up to a $50 credit; some natural gas, propane or oil furnaces or hot water boilers are eligible for up to a $150 credit; and qualifying electric and geothermal heat pumps qualify for up to a $300 credit. The credits can be taken on 2006 and 2007 returns, but the total credits for the two years cannot exceed the $500 maximum, says CCH.
The act also gives homeowners a tax credit for 30% of the cost of buying and installing residential solar water heating and photovoltaic equipment, says CCH. The maximum credit is $2,000. Solar water heaters for swimming pools and hot tubs do not qualify. The credit, which expires at the end of 2007, also applies to homeowners who install fuel cells to supply electricity. The maximum credit is $500 for each 0.5 kilowatt of capacity.
Visit Sandium.Com to have your home evaluated before winter sets in. 
Article courtesy of Real Estate at MSN

Monday, August 13, 2012

Energy Saving Tips


Energy Saving Tips

You can save energy dollars by following these simple tips. Many of them are common sense suggestions that require no tools or out of pocket expense. Over time, you will see your energy efficiency increase and your energy savings multiply.

Heating/Cooling

  • Set your thermostat at 78°F in the summer and 68°F in the winter.  Each degree cooler or warmer will increase your energy use by 6% to 8%.  For instance, setting your thermostat at 72°F in the summer could increase energy use by up to 40%.  The same is true if you set your thermostat for higher energy use in the winter.
  • Turn off lights & fans when you leave a room.  Fans only make you feel cooler.  They do nothing to lower the temperature.  Most ceiling fans use less energy than a light bulb.
  • If you have central air conditioning, do not close vents in unused rooms.  This could increase pressure and cause leaks in your ducts.  This does not apply to homes or apartments with window units where closing off unused rooms will reduce cooling costs and increase comfort
  • Check air conditioning ducts.  If you feel leaks between sections, or where the ducts connect with the air handler, seal them with metal tape and a coating of mastic.
  • Clean or replace air filters.  Dirty filters can increase operating costs by 20% because they make your system work harder and run longer than necessary.  They also encourage the build up of mold and mildew, making cleaning more difficult.
  • Lower the thermostat on your hot water heater to 120°F or the 'normal' setting when home, and to the lowest setting when away.  Water heating accounts for about 13% of home energy costs.
  • Install a programmable thermostat to keep your house comfortably warm in the winter and comfortably cool in the summer.
  • Avoid setting your thermostat at a colder setting than normal when you turn on your air conditioner.  It will not cool your home any faster and could result in excessive cooling and, therefore, an unnecessary expense.
  • Consider new high efficiency air conditioners and heat pumps.  They use up to 40% less electricity than older models for the same amount of running time.
  • During the summer, keep the window coverings closed during the day to prevent solar gain.  Close curtains on south and west facing windows during the day, and install awnings on south and west facing windows.
  • Apply sun-c

Energy Efficiency



Energy Efficiency

Energy efficiency is the goal of efforts to reduce the amount of energy required to provide products and services. For example, insulating a home allows a building to use less heating and cooling energy to achieve and maintain a comfortable temperature. Installing fluorescent lights or natural skylights reduces the amount of energy required to attain the same level of illumination compared to using traditional incandescent light bulbs. Compact fluorescent lights use two-thirds less energy and may last 6 to 10 times longer than incandescent lights. Improvements in energy efficiency are most often achieved by adopting a more efficient technology or production process.
There are various motivations to improve energy efficiency. Reducing energy use reduces energy costs and may result in a financial cost saving to consumers if the energy savings offset any additional costs of implementing an energy efficient technology. Reducing energy use is also seen as a key solution to the problem of reducing greenhouse gas emissions. According to the International Energy Agency, improved energy efficiency in buildings, industrial processes and transportation could reduce the world's energy needs in 2050 by one third, and help control global emissions of greenhouse gases.
Energy efficiency and renewable energy are said to be the twin pillars of sustainable energy policy. In many countries energy efficiency is also seen to have a national security benefit because it can be used to reduce the level of energy imports from foreign countries and may slow down the rate at which domestic energy resources are depleted.
To have your home audited for energy efficiency please visit Sandium.Com
Article courtesy of Save On Energy

Friday, July 13, 2012

101 Ways To Save Energy


It may not seem like using a compact fluorescent light bulb or fixing a leaky faucet will do much to reduce your energy costs - or protect the environment.
But if every household practiced just a few simple conservation ideas like the 101 easy ways to save below, we could reduce energy consumption by a significant amount.
All it takes is a few minutes each month, and you'll notice a difference - and make a difference.
     
Getting started
1.  Do a home energy audit. This survey analyzes your home's structure, appliances and insulation, as well as your family's lifestyle. Alliant Energy offers customers a free online energy audit called My Home Comfort Check Up that provides a personalized report detailing specific ways to save energy throughout your home.
2.  Change or clean your furnace filter once a month. Dust and dirt can quickly clog vital parts, making your furnace run harder and eventually break down.
3.  Have your heating system inspected regularly - especially if it's natural gas. A $50-100 annual tune-up can help reduce your heating costs by up to five percent.
4.  If you have a forced-air furnace, do NOT close heat registers in unused rooms. Your furnace is designed to heat a specific square footage of space and can't sense a register is closed - it will continue working at the same pace. In addition, the cold air from unheated rooms can escape into the rest of the house, reducing the effectiveness of all your insulating and weatherizing.
5.  Install a programmable thermostat. If you use it to set back the temperature by 10 degrees for eight hours every night, you'll lower your heating bills by 10 percent. A $50 digital thermostat can pay for itself in energy savings in less than a year.
6.  Don't set the thermostat higher than you actually want it. It won't heat your home any faster, and it will keep your furnace running longer than necessary.
7.  Vacuum registers and vents regularly, and don't let furniture and draperies block the air flow. Inexpensive plastic deflectors can direct air under tables and chairs.
8.  If your home has a boiler system, avoid covering radiators with screens or blocking them with furniture. It's also a good idea to add a reflecting panel behind radiators - you can purchase one at a home center or make one yourself with a plywood panel and aluminum foil.
9.  If your home has electric baseboard heating, be sure to keep furniture and draperies away from the heaters, and leave at least a three-inch clearance under the heating unit.
10.  Keep curtains and blinds closed at night to keep cold air out, but open them during the day to let the sun warm the room.
11.  Avoid using space heaters, including electric, kerosene or propane models. Not only are they expensive to operate, they're also very dangerous.
12.  If you have hardwood or tile floors, add area rugs to keep your feet warm.
13.  If you'll be going on vacation, lower the thermostat to 55 degrees. This will save energy while preventing water pipes from freezing.
14.  If you have a wood-burning fireplace, have the chimney cleaned and inspected regularly, and burn only fully dried hardwoods to produce the most heat output.
15.  Check the seal on the damper by closing it off and holding a piece of tissue paper inside the firebox. If drafts blow the tissue around, repair or replace the damper.
16.  When using the fireplace, turn down the furnace to 55 degrees. If you don't, all the warm air from the furnace will go right up the chimney, wasting energy and money.
17.  Add fireproof caulk where the chimney meets the wall, inside and outside.
18.  When the fireplace is not in use, make sure fireplace dampers are sealed tight, and keep the glass doors closed. If you never use your fireplace, plug the chimney with fiberglass insulation and seal the doors with silicone caulk.
19.  Check insulation levels throughout your house. Measure attic insulation with a ruler, and check behind switch plates for sidewall insulation.
20.  Install more attic insulation. Upgrading from three inches to 12 inches can cut heating costs by 20 percent, and cooling costs by 10 percent.
21.  Add pieces of batt insulation to the rim joists - the area along the top of the foundation where it meets the exterior walls.
22.  If your basement is unheated, install blanket insulation in between exposed floor joists.
23.  Choose the new "no-itch" or poly-wrapped insulation products. They're much easier to handle and safer to work with - making them worth the extra cost.
24.  Install additional attic insulation at right angles to the previous layer. You don't have to use the same type of insulation - it's fine to use batts or blankets over loose-fill, or vice versa.
25.  When using loose-fill, be sure to distribute the insulation evenly. Any inconsistencies can reduce the insulating value.
26.  While shopping for insulation, remember that R-value measures the amount of thermal resistance. The higher the R-value, the better the insulation.
27.  Never cover attic vents or recessed light fixtures with insulation, and allow a three-inch clearance around chimneys and flue pipes to prevent overheating and avoid the risk of fire.
28.  Have a leaky roof repaired and make sure your basement is waterproofed. Wet insulation is worthless.
29.  Maintain your central air conditioner by cleaning the outside compressor with a garden hose (be sure to shut off power at the fuse or breaker first). Keep plantings at least one foot away for adequate airflow.
30.  During late afternoon and early evening, turn off unnecessary lights and wait to use heat-producing appliances. It's also a good idea to shade south- and west- facing windows during the hottest part of the day.
31.  Plant a tree. One well-placed shade tree can reduce your cooling costs by 25 percent. For maximum benefit, place leafy shade trees to the south and west, and evergreens to the north.
32.  Use ceiling fans to help circulate air throughout the house, and make sure your attic is properly ventilated. A ceiling fan should run clockwise during the summer, and counter-clockwise during the winter.
33.  Set the fan on your central air conditioner to "on" rather than "auto." This will circulate air continuously, keeping the temperature more even throughout the house and aiding in dehumidification.
34.  Make sure your window air conditioner is the proper size. It's better to get one that's too small than too large - a larger unit will start up and turn off more frequently and won't do as good a job dehumidifying the air.
35.  Don't judge the efficiency of your air conditioner by the sound of the fan shutting on and off. The blower will continue to circulate cooled air throughout your home up to 15 minutes after the compressor has stopped. (The same holds true for the furnace.)
36.  Raise the thermostat to about 78 to 80 degrees whenever you go to bed or leave the house. A programmable thermostat will do this for you automatically.
37.  If your home can't accommodate central air conditioning, try a whole-house attic fan. This device pushes hot air out through attic vents, lowering the temperature throughout your home about five degrees in less than ten minutes. Attic fans cost less than 25 cents per day to operate.
38.  During the winter, remove window air conditioners and seal the windows with caulk and weatherstripping. You might also want to cover the central air compressor with a tarp to keep it clean.
39.  Seal doors and windows with caulk, weatherstripping and plastic film. An investment of $50 in weatherizing supplies can reduce heating costs by two to three times that much. Don't forget the basement windows!
40.  Add foam gaskets behind all outlet covers and switch plates, and use safety plugs in all unused outlets. These are prime places for outside air to leak into your home. Be sure to shut off power at the fuse box or circuit panel first.
41.  Check the exterior of your home for air leaks, especially around openings for water spigots, air conditioner hoses, dryer vents and gas pipes. Use caulk or expanding foam to seal spaces.
42.  If your home has a large, single-pane picture window, use heavy draperies during the winter to help hold back cold air.
43.  Reflective window film can help reduce heat gain during the summer, and it will keep furniture and carpets from fading.
44.  Check window panes to see if they need new glazing. If the glass is loose, replace the putty holding the pane in place. Most types of window glazing require painting for a proper seal.
45.  If drafts sneak in under exterior doors, replace the threshold. If that's not practical, block the drafts with a rolled-up towel or blanket.
46.  Seal the edges of unused doors and windows with rope caulk. Don't seal them shut permanently - you might need quick ventilation or escape during an emergency.
47.  Choose the right kind of caulk for the job. Use latex or acrylic caulk inside - it's easy to clean and more forgiving if you're a beginner. Silicone caulk is great for outside use because it lasts longer and seals virtually any type of surface.
48.  Don't forget to weatherize the attic access. Secure batt insulation to the back of the hatch or door, and use weatherstripping to seal the opening.
49.  Set the water heater temperature at 120 degrees - about halfway between low and medium. This will help save energy and prevent scalding, while keeping unhealthy bacteria from growing.
50.  Install a water-saving showerhead. Don't worry - it won't reduce your water pressure. A family of four, each taking a five-minute shower a day, can save $250 a year in water heating costs by switching to a low-flow showerhead.
51.  Fix leaky faucets, especially if it's a hot water faucet. One drop per second can add up to 165 gallons a month - that's more than one person uses in two weeks.
52.  Use aerators on kitchen and bathroom sink faucets. If you have hard water, clean aerators and showerheads with vinegar regularly to reduce deposits and build-up.
53.  Take showers, not baths. A five-minute shower will use about 7.5 gallons of hot water, while filling a bathtub can use up to 20 gallons.
54.  If your water heater is more than 15 years old, install an insulating wrap to reduce "standby" heat loss. It's also a good idea to insulate hot water pipes where they're accessible.
55.  Use smaller kitchen appliances whenever possible. Microwaves, toaster ovens and slow-cookers can use 75 percent less energy than a large electric oven.
56.  Vacuum the refrigerator coils about twice a year to keep the compressor running efficiently.
57.  As your mother always told you, don't leave the refrigerator door open. Every time it's opened, up to 30 percent of the cooled air can escape. The same rule holds for the oven, too.
58.  Keep the refrigerator temperature about 36-38 degrees, and the freezer at 0-5 degrees.
59.  Don't overload the refrigerator or freezer. The cold air needs to circulate freely to keep foods at the proper temperature.
60.  Make sure the refrigerator is level, so the door automatically swings shut instead of open. If the floor isn't level, use shims to prop up the front of the refrigerator.
61.  Don't worry about placing hot leftovers in the refrigerator. It won't affect energy use significantly, and cooling food to room temperature first can increase the chance of food-borne illnesses.
62.  Check the seal on your refrigerator door by closing it on a dollar bill. If you can pull the bill out easily, it's time to replace the gaskets. You can purchase a replacement kit from an appliance dealer or a home center.
63.  Use your oven's self-cleaning feature immediately after cooking, while the oven is still hot. This will reduce a lengthy warm-up time.
64.  Use lids on pots and pans to reduce cooking times, and don't put a small pan on a large burner.
65.  Keep the grease plates under range burners clean to reflect heat more efficiently.
66.  Run the dishwasher only with full loads, and use the air-dry cycle. If your dishwasher has a "booster" water heater, use it; this will heat the water to the 140 degrees recommended by manufacturers, while maintaining an energy-saving 120 degrees on your primary water heater.
67.  Wash only full loads of clothes, and be sure to set the water level appropriately.
68.  Use hot water only for very dirty loads, and always use cold water for the rinse cycle.
69.  Clean the lint screen on the dryer every time you use the machine. A clogged lint screen can make your dryer use up to 30 percent more energy - and it can be a fire hazard.
70.  Remove clothes from the dryer while they're still damp and hang them up. This will save energy, prevent static and reduce wrinkles and shrinkage.
71.  Dry one load of clothes immediately after another. This will minimize heat loss, reducing warm-up and drying times.
72.  Switch to compact fluorescent light bulbs. These bulbs use 75 percent less energy than typical incandescents, and they last 10 times longer.
73.  Look for a compact fluorescent wattage that's about one-third of the incandescent wattage you usually use.
74.  Use lighting control devices like dimmers, motion detectors, occupancy sensors, photocells and timers to provide light only when you need it.
75.  Keep lamps away from thermostats; the heat produced can cause your furnace to run less than needed or your air conditioner more than needed.
76.  Dust light fixtures regularly. A heavy coat of dust can block up to 50 percent of the light output.
77.  Use only a single bulb in a multi-socket fixture. Be sure to check the maximum wattage the fixture allows.
78.  Replace an incandescent outdoor light or high-intensity floodlight with a high-pressure sodium fixture. The bulbs will last longer, use less energy, and handle temperature extremes better.
79.  Use low-voltage lighting kits to light walkways, patios and decks. The soft light will also attract fewer annoying insects.
80.  Decorate with pale colors on walls, ceilings and floors. Soft tones reflect more light, so you can use lower wattage bulbs and delay turning on lights until later in the day. Using high-gloss paint can help as well.
81.  Read light bulb packages carefully. Watts measure the amount of energy needed; lumens measure how much light a bulb produces. Energy-saving bulbs produce more lumens per watt of electricity used.
82.  Get rid of spare refrigerators or freezers. An extra appliance can add more than $100 to your energy bills every year, and it's a safety hazard for small children.
83.  Keep outdoor hot tubs covered when not in use. If you have a pool, use a solar cover to use the natural warmth of the sun to heat the water.
84.  Keep waterbeds covered with quilts or blankets to help retain their heat. You might also want to insulate the bottom with a sheet of rigid foam insulation.
85.  Keep the garage door closed, especially during the winter.
86.  If you need a new lawn mower, consider an electric model. They're less expensive to operate (about three cents of electricity per use), 75 percent quieter, and they significantly reduce toxic emissions.
87.  Instead of air-polluting and expensive charcoal or propane, try an electric or natural gas grill. They're more economical and more convenient - you'll never run out of fuel.
88.  Unplug any electrical device that's not being used. Many appliances, especially computers, televisions and VCRs draw power even when turned off.
89.  Place humidifiers and dehumidifiers away from walls and bulky furniture. These appliances work best when air circulates freely around them. Be sure to clean the unit often to prevent unhealthy mold and bacteria from developing.
90.  If your home has no sidewall insulation, place heavy furniture like bookshelves, armoires and sofas along exterior walls, and use decorative quilts as wall hangings. This will help block cold air.
91.  When you take a vacation, don't forget to give your appliances a rest too. Turn off and unplug everything you can, set your water heater to the lowest setting and shut off the water supply to the dishwasher and washing machine.      
92.  Remember that it pays to invest in energy efficiency. In some cases, the money you save in energy costs can pay back the purchase price in just a few years.
93.  Always read the Energy Guide label carefully, and make sure you're comparing "apples to apples." Energy use can range significantly even within a single brand.
94.  Choose the capacity that's right for your family. Whether it's a furnace or a refrigerator, it doesn't pay to purchase a unit that's too large or too small.
95.  In almost every case, a natural gas appliance is more economical to use than an electric model. The $50-75 price difference can be paid back in energy savings in less than a year.
96.  Replace inefficient appliances - even if they're still working. An aging water heater or refrigerator could be costing you much more than you think. If your central air conditioner is more than 10 years old, replacing it with a high-efficiency new unit will cut your summer electric bills by about one-third.
97.  Shop during the off-season. Many heating and cooling manufacturers offer significant rebates during seasonal sales promotions, and dealers may charge less for installation.
98.  Investigate new technology carefully. Some innovations, like convection ovens or argon-filled windows, may save energy and make life more convenient; others, such as commercial-grade kitchen appliances, might be merely expensive cosmetic enhancements.
99.  Look for the "EnergyStar" logo. This designation from the Environmental Protection Agency means that the appliance exceeds minimum federal energy- use standards, usually by a significant amount.
100.  Don't forget to ask about warranties, service contracts, and delivery and installation costs.
101.  Be sure to choose a reputable and knowledgeable dealer. A good dealer should be able to help you calculate energy savings and the payback period, and he or she should offer you a range of brands and prices. 

Visit Sandium.Com to get an energy audit on your home and learn how you can save more money on your energy bills.